Travel: turquoise waters, golden beaches and lazy life in Antigua

Nothing suggests paradise more than the Caribbean, and Antigua – one of the Leeward Islands – is as pretty as they come, laden with golden sands, gently swaying palm trees and turquoise waters.

Arriving on British Airways’ inaugural flight from London Heathrow to Antigua – the airline’s first for 30 years – we are greeted by Antigua Tourism and Investment Minister Charles Fernandez as well as television national, ensuring that we make the evening news. Mr. Fernandez tells me that with 70 percent of Antigua’s GDP coming from tourism, this theft – and those that will follow – are crucial to islanders’ livelihoods.

With Antigua and Barbuda currently on the UK’s green list and with an average of just two new cases of Covid per day, the island is a popular destination for holidaymakers. Nearly 70,000 Covid vaccines have been administered to date for a population of around 98,000 and the wearing of face masks is mandatory, including outdoor spaces, although beaches are exempt.

As a result, I’m told the island has full occupancy of its hotel rooms for what is traditionally Antigua’s low season, with most tourists spending as much time as possible on the beach or in the crystal-clear waters.

And this is water where I want to be. At the Antigua National Sailing Academy in English Harbor, I receive a sailing lesson from Joshua Daniels aboard his Hobie Cat. The academy, aware that 80 percent of the island’s elementary school students cannot swim, aims to tackle the problem by using income generated from tourism and donations to give free swimming and sailing lessons.

Fittingly, our lesson ends with a swim, before climbing onto a rubber tube to be towed at high speed. A distant memory of waterskiing 30 years ago reminds me of leaning forward and backward in order to increase speed and cross the water, but I somehow allow the line to relax and the sudden force of its tightening again catapults me through the air. After crashing violently into the water, the tube and I got separated. It’s exciting, silly, and a lot of fun.

I manage to recover in time for a trip to Sheer Rocks at the Cocobay Resort, run by Brit Alex Grimley who has lived in Antigua for 14 years. While the restaurant excels in blending the best of Antigua and the Caribbean with international cuisine, it is the philosophy of providing jobs for young people who drop out of school and training them to progress to senior positions. level that impresses me.

I sip a rum punch topped with cinnamon and nutmeg watching the milky blue ocean.

Our not-so-humble Tamarind Hills accommodations are steps from Sheer Rocks and overlook two of the island’s 365 gorgeous beaches, Ffryes and Darkwood, located on the sheltered west coast facing the sunset.

Ten-year-old Tamarind Hills is currently undergoing renovations with 42 additional suites, a restaurant, pool, and beach club opening in November.

My suite is simply four poster paradise. Looking out to sea from the huge balcony, the feeling of paradise outside is reflected when I turn around and go back inside.

Typically, the island is now preparing for Carnival, falling each year at the end of July and running until the first Tuesday in August. For now, the focus is on the long days, so I wake up early to swim, watching in wonder the famous Antiguan frigates fly above me. It’s not easy to get out of the water, but I can’t wait to visit the capital, St John’s, on market day.

Saturday morning is the new Saturday night, offering a sensory riot of colors and scents. As I explore the different market stalls, I realize why Antigua is considered one of the safest and friendliest countries in the Caribbean.

My last visit is to the new 22 foot Antigua Boonji Spaceman sculpture, standing at the end of a small jetty at Hodges Bay Resort on the North Coast. The piece, designed by Malibu artist Brendan Murphy, aims to uplift the human spirit and highlights the artist’s fascination with space.

While walking towards her, I hear music and I see a rather energetic dancer who tells me later that his name is Tango. The sky darkens, the rain falls, then stops before the sun goes down again. The tango dances the whole way, only stopping briefly when I thank him. As I walk away, Tango and the astronaut are still there for it. Even a global pandemic will not stop them.

Coming back to the Tamarind, I think of the laid back Caribbean phrase “soon”. While nothing here happens in a rush, everything comes on time. Yet for anyone thinking of visiting this icy, stress-free corner of the world, there is no reason to hold back. With the sun, the sea and the sand so glorious, the only message is: “come soon”.

How to plan your trip

Suites at Tamarind Hills start from £ 250 per night. Visit tamarind-hills.com

British Airways now flies to Antigua from Heathrow and Gatwick with prices starting at £ 378 return. Visit britishairways.com

For more information, visit antiguabarbuda.com